Indore steps out for a culinary pilgrimage

The first half of Ramadan, the holy month of fasting and feasting, had devouts compromising on the elaborate Iftar spread due to the on-going farmer’s protest that had the city grappling with the basic commodities like fruits, vegetables and dairy products. But, now with the demonstrations at rest, it’s time for the gastronomically driven Indoreans to binge in the elaborate Iftar spread.Indore streets are the place to be to enjoy the delectable dishes from the textured haleem to refreshing sherbets and desserts this Ramadan. Here is where you need to go to make your best pick from the gourmet Iftar spread.


Monsoon munchies like Bhajiye, pakoras and samosas become the most sought after starters during Ramadan and otherwise. The makeshift stalls in Azad Nagar and Badwali Chowki are abuzz with devouts in the evening savouring these munchies. Danish Yusuf, a regular at the market shares, “The various stall owners have given a twist to these munchies with stuffing of mutton, keema and mirchi in samosas and bhajiyas. These snacks have been priced at Rupees 20 for four samosas and a 100 gram bhajiyas.” These places see people hanging out post namaaz around 7.30 in the evening. Sarthak Soni, an engineering student adds, “We at our home don’t get to enjoy an Iftar spread, so we prefer going to these places to have a dash of celebration. The stall owners are extremely welcoming and we feel one amongst all.”

A rich meal is incomplete without being guilty of gorging on some irresistible desserts. Areas like Khajrana and Rani Pura are just the streets to be to have desserts like Aam Paak, Gulab-jamun, Meetha Samosa (caramel dipped), rice pudding (condensed Kheer) etc. These pocket-friendly dishes attract hundreds of enthusiasts daily to feel the essence of the Ramadan month. Hamza Khan, a sweet shop owner in Khajrana, shares, “In the month of Ramadan we don’t open stalls with an idea to make money. It’s a month of divinity and we want to make people happy. Serving them with desserts at low prices is one way of expressing our strong brotherhood.”

Biryani tops the list of favourite delicacies for many during Ramadan. The speciality about the biryani that is served at Bambai Bazaar is its authentic preparation. Yusuf Ali, a Biryani stall owner, says, “People prefer to break their roza at home and only come at our stalls around 10 pm. Though, this irresistible Iftar delicacy is a must have during this time. It takes us almost three hours to prepare it and we keep the quantity low so that people can enjoy the taste even when their tummy is full.” Ansh Pagare, a hostel resident who is a regular at the biryani stalls, shares, “I have a couple of college friends who let me relish the Iftar feast at their homes and also take me to these famous biryani stalls late in the night. Now three more roommates of mine have become a regular at Bambai Bazaar.”

There are a few savouries like Haleem, Shirmal and Khasta Rot that are commonly available at all these streets. Indori haleem is no less than the famous Hyderabadi haleem. Mohammad Tabish, a chef talks about the recipe, “Haleem is a thick gravy like preparation made from variety of dals, gehu, matar and chunks of meat. It is better eaten hot. Families prepare haleem at home as well. This is one essential Ramadan dish relished by everyone.” However, dates, Shirmaal (a loaf of bread stuffed with fruits) and Khasta rot (a type of cookie) are the most savoured choices and available ever where. “Though we get to enjoy almost everything that is available at Indore streets during Ramadan at our homes but the joy of making a beeline with our friends post Namaaz to these streets is unparalleled,” shares Rizwan Sheikh, signing off.

Picture Credits: Arpit Joshi